Dish’s Definitive Guide to Men’s Summer Casual Style Pt. 1: Polo Shirts, T-Shirts, Linen Shirts, Camp Shirts, etc.

From Dish and A Few Stylish CRUSH Readers

Cotton Polo Shirts

I’ll lead with the cotton knit polo shirt because it is undoubtedly the shirt of the season for men. There are updated versions this season from various clothing lines in the full range from relaxed to tailored. Polos have soared as a men’s staple generally, and I am seeing them on good-looking men everywhere from outdoorsy locales out West (like Colorado or California) to casual dinners on the Cape to Boston and New York. I am not talking about the old school preppy polo, nor the technical versions made for golf. I mean updated cotton versions meant for going out. Because the updated polo falls somewhere between a nice t-shirt and a linen collared shirt, it works for a wide range of outings and over everything from jeans to shorts to khakis and beyond. One of the things that make all these polos more modern and versatile is that they don’t have an observable logo — a reason why I’ve stayed away from the classic golf/tennis polo’s we grew up with, which don’t have the versatility. What I like about all the versions I offer up is that the sleeves aren’t too short and they don’t have a tight band — two things I find unflattering on men.

As one CRUSH Reader put it: “I’m 64. I used to think I could get away with wearing a high end James Perse t-shirt everywhere, but then I bought a couple of Varvatos polo shirts for going out to dinner with my girlfriend. I think these work really well just about everywhere I go regularly.”

If you don’t have some of the new versions in your wardrobe, this is the first thing I’d buy for summer if I were a guy.

The Super Relaxed Modern Polo

The updated, more relaxed version of the polo pictured above is a cross between the more formal poplin/linen collared shirts, on the one-hand and t-shirts, on the other, and its use case is inching out both. The best of the relaxed versions are super soft with a lightweight cotton: the James Perse Sueded Jersey Polo ($135) (left above) and the Buck Mason Sueded Cotton Polo ($75) (right above). J Crew‘s washed piqué polo shirt is almost a contender (but not quite); unfortunately, the coolest color in their arsenal (Union Blue) is currently sold out. I find the softness, the fluidity and casualness of the James Perse Sueded Jersey Polo so tempting and sensual— it would be hard to resist reaching out to touch a date dressed in this shirt. I’d be picturing what it might feel like to rub up against it.

Updated Polos, But A Little More Structured

The Todd Snyder Cotton Pique Polo ($98) and Sid Mashburn Short Sleeved Polo ($115) are sharp looking, more modern versions of the polo. Both are pique rather than the suede (or slubbed) cotton of the James Perse and Buck Mason shirts, so they edge more toward a traditional polo, yet they are far from the preppy or ‘athletic-leaning’ polo that was once ubiquitous. (Note the lack of a logo.) These polo’s are for being out, not playing sports, and they come in a nice range of colors that include less sporty colors, such as black, white, charcoal, olive. Other sharp versions come from Vince ($148.00), Faherty ($79) and Anthony Thomas Melillo ($85.00). Varvatos makes some fine cotton ones, but also polos in a sweater weight. I am focused on cotton in this column, but I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that Vuori's Strato Polo ($64) is a terrific “tech” version that is soft but alas, not cotton.

The Best Version of the ‘Top Shelf Modern Polo’

The Sunspel Riviera Polo ($155). On one of the rare summery days New England has seen this season I was sitting at the patio bar of a nice Italian restaurant on the Cape waiting for a friend when I noticed the sharp looking polo on the guy seated next to me. A few days later I was in downtown NYC grabbing lunch during the week and again noticed the nice polo on the guy next to me. Long story short, after chatting each of them up a bit I learned they were both wearing the Sunspel Riviera Polo. Sunspel, out of London, makes their polo’s from California supima cotton. The fabric has a cool mesh finish I like — that’s what I noticed first on the two guys — Sunspel says they first developed it in the 50’s for wearing on the French Riviera and later tailored it for Daniel Craig‘s role as James Bond in Casino Royale. That explains the shirt’s combination of summery feel and updated but classic styling. But the shirts the guys were wearing were also great colors — one looked like the charcoal shown above, the other was midnight navy. (Yes, I asked). Midnight navy is one of my favorite colors on men because of its versatility across occasions and because it reads black but is way more flattering on a lot of skin tones. (Note that on their website they say the Riviera Polo has a slim fit.)

The Best Pique Polo for Under $40

The Gap’s Pique Polo Shirt ($24) is 98% cotton 2% stretch, comes in a variety of colors. Rating of 4.9 (out of 5) from over 1200 reviews. And for under $40. Get them while they last.

The Perfect Long Sleeve Polo

The Facconable Long Sleeve Stretch Jersey Polo ($200). One CRUSH Reader will only wear this polo. “I only wear long-sleeve now because I hate putting on sunscreen during the day and at night wearing a long sleeve is just easier. It means I probably don’t need a sweater in the summer. I’ve been wearing these for years. I’ve tried every polo out there and this one checks all the boxes: no logo, all cotton but with stretch so it’s always comfortable and wearable (even after a big meal), sharp enough looking to go everywhere I actually want to go (which does not include the fanciest spots) yet casual enough to not look overdressed at a pub.“ One down-side is that there is not a deep color selection at any one point in time, but if you shop it through the years (as he does) you pick up a couple. This Khaki Green is a handsome shade. (He bought three.)

T-Shirts & Sunshirts

Basic & Budget, But So Solid

The JCrew Online Factory Outlet Cotton Washed Jersey T ($17) and the Uniqlo Supima Cotton T-Shirt ($25) work perfectly well if you’re looking to pick up a handful of straightforward, breathable, simple classic cotton crewneck t-shirts. These are a super soft cotton on the thin side, making them perfect for kicking around in on hot summer days.

I was recently in the JCrew factory outlet physical store picking up a handful of these men’s shirts for myself. (I wear them to knock-about and I trim the collar down to open up the neck a bit.) They were having their annual sale, and there were three guys who looked fifty(ish) behind me , all of whom were stocking up on these like they were buying socks. I asked the guy behind me, who said he “wheres them everywhere from grocery shopping to the beach to washing the car and walking the dog to hanging in front of the t.v. But,“ he added, “not to dinner with a date. If I’m wearing a t-shirt with jeans to go 'out out’ I’ll wear something like a James Perse.” (The ubiquitous James Perse t-shirt, holy moly.)

The Upgraded Essential T-Shirt

In aedition to the guy in front of me at the JCrew Factory Outlet Store, a number of CRUSH readers mentioned James Perse as a source for t-shirts ($85 to $165), citing their wide range of style offerings and colors: “Pricey, but soft reliable go-to’s and the dusky shades of gray-blue are cool.” Another CRUSH Reader is a big fan of the Banana Republic Luxe Long Sleeve T (usually $50 but it looks like they might be on sale): Love these for all occasions. Come in tall sizes too. Their slim shirts in tall fit close to my body so I don't look like I'm wearing a boxy camp shirt.” I should also mention that Sunspel makes a classic t-shirt ($98) in a range of colors, and this is Conan O’Brien’s favorite t-shit (and he’s a bit of a connoisseur of t-shirts, as many comedians are, given it is pretty much their uniform).

Linen Shirts & Camp Shirts

Staying casual but moving down (up?) the chain toward more formality we have the various linen shirts and camp shirts, also very big for guys this summer. I am a big fan of Sid Mashburn’s large collection of spread collar men’s shirts (and the brand generally, but more on that in Part 3 when we get to brands our guys love), particularly the above linen-cotton blend (L) ($175). A spread color is less formal, more updated and modern (read: younger looking) than a pointed collar, and the way that Sid Mashburn (master men’s tailor) does this updated spread collar it still reads gentleman. Todd Snyder makes a gorgeous soft Irish linen camp shirt ($138) in a range of colors. For something casual looking, OuterKnown (Kelly Slater’s brand) does a linen version called a BBQ Shirt ($98) (he wears it below.)

Of course you could just go with a traditional pointed collar linen shirt and — truthfully — you would look better than 90% of the gentlemen out there. If you’re going to do that you could go with a perfectly good one for a bargain from Uniqlo ($39.90) or a fine-looking one that’s a step above from Banana Republic ($50), or you could get a really sharp looking, less relaxed pointed collar linen shirt from Todd Snyder (hopefully in his dark navy) ($158). But I’m telling you, the Sid Mashburn spread collar and the Todd Snyder and OuterKnown camp shirts (written about above) are a bit sexier. And isn’t that important to you? (It is to me.) Whatever you do, though, I beg you, do not get JCrew‘s best selling men’s button-down linen shirt. Why? Because it’s button-down, for god’s sake, which defeats the purpose of wearing linen — the breeziness of it. Button downs are high school. Button downs bring to mind your Uncle Milton, the accountant. Not that there is anything wrong with being an accountant, mind you. But even if you are one, why would you want to go out to dinner dressed like one?

Case in point. Check out the clean-cut kid, dressed in the JCrew linen button down below. Handsome? Yes. But doesn’t his button-down vaguely signal that he is going to grow up to do the post college two-year accounting progarm at Price Waterhouse where they pay for your Executive MBA? That’s great for him, but you’re way beyond that stage. You’re a CRUSH Reader! I’d bet you’re probably cool.

Festive Camp Shirts

I’d be letting you down if I didn’t add in sources for a few festive camp shirts. We have a CRUSH reader who swears by Jinji Paris for special, one-off wardrobe items like the shirt shown above on the far left (now sold out, but that just makes the point). OuterKnown’s BBQ Shirt (cotton) ($98) comes in a couple of fun prints, as does Buck Mason’s Draped Linen Coupe Camp Shirt ($168). And if you want one but you don’t want to take it to seriously, the JCrew Factory Outlet has some too ($53).

Vintage & Graphic T’s

A terrific source for searching out vintage graphic t-shirts is Strike Anywhere Vintage T-Shirts. Also, one CRUSH Reader suggested you check out Urban Outfitters vintage store. Sources for new graphic t’s: Imogene + Will (for American-made all cotton t’s out of Knoxville, TN), Hiro Clark (out of California, for t-shirts with sly sayings as well as high quality plain t-shirts) and Jinji Paris (for one-offs and special t-shirts, as well as other cool shirts).

Coming up in Dish’s Definitive Men’s Summer Casual Style Guide:

Part 2: jeans, shorts and sneakers, sweaters, hoodies and heavier shirts

Part 3: Brands to shop (generally)

Dish Stanley writes The Crush Letter, a free weekly newsletter that gives an honest, joyful look at life, love and culture for those over 40. Its periodic report on sex toys tested and reviewed by its readers of both sexes is its most popular offering. Dish believes midlife (and later) is a lot hotter than they said it would be. Hell yes, sign me up for the Dish.